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The backdrop of a giant swan, inspired by a famous Russian painting, gave a new, harder edge to the Russian fairy story style of Ulyana Sergeenko. Here was a Soviet take on her native country, with a military black leather coat opening the show and striking mohair sweaters with the graphic patterns of constructivist artist Kazimir Malevich.

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Inspired by the artistic interior of Moscow’s metro, the collection had a new geometry and a sportier, work-wear feel. There was  a hard, metallic edge even to shiny evening fabric.

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But Ulyana could not hide her romantic fashion soul. She used mimosa, as a harbinger of Spring in the Steppes, to create both a symbol of hope – and a pretty effect as intarsia lace on graceful dresses.