Suzy Menkes reports from the Pitti Immagine exhibition
Performance artist Marina Abramović pasted on to an oil painting at the exhibition by Francesco Vezzoli. © Proj3ct Studio
”ART AND FASHION”
Melding art and fashion is one of the specialities of Florence. The first example of what became a trend for an entire generation was the fashion biennale in 1996. I will never forget the chase around Florence from Prada’s goats nibbling dry grass to Jean Paul Gaultier’s display among skulls in a medical museum to Yves Saint Laurent’s display in the Uffizi gallery.
The contribution this season of artist Francesco Vezzoli’s was striking, because he mounted his pastiche paintings on the walls of private palazzos tuned into museum-homes.
This infiltration creates a dialogue with art works: not least a portrait of the artist himself translated as a historic painting; or images of his mother with a line of sparkling jewels spilling out of her mouth.
Striking pieces included a self portrait of a biblical figure chained to a pillar with an ancient sculpture just below his feet.
The ultimate sacrilege? The head of performance artist Marina Abramović pasted on to an oil painting.
”FAMOUS FASHION FLORENTINES”
Roberto Cavalli space at Florence and Fashion exhibition with images by Steven Meisel, Craig McDean and Paolo Roversi. © Proj3ct Studio
Gucci and Pucci, Ferragamo and Scervino – all brands, and their founders, born in Florence. Add Roberto Cavalli, whose grandfather Giuseppe Rossi was an artist whose work is hung in the city’s Uffizzi Gallery.
The Gucci space at Florence and Fashion exhibition with images by Paolo Roversi and Mario Sorenti. © Proj3ct Studio
Vogue Italia celebrated ‘Firenze Hometown of Fashion’ with an exhibition of iconic images by leading photographers. Entitled ‘Florence and Fashion’, the show was designed to show the intrinsic Italian style in a global world.
”WHO IS ON NEXT”
Alberto Premi from Brescia in Lombardy. © Suzy Menkes
Move over Chanel! More than a match – on the tennis court or football ground – for haute couture sneakers are the colourful bespoke sport shoes from Alberto Premi from Brescia in Lombardy.
Tom Lipop, English born co/winner of Who is On Next showing off inventive fabrics in tailoring with a twist. © Suzy Menkes
Joint winner of the Who is On Next award at the Pitti Imagine menswear fair, the shoes are in inventive shapes. Alberto Premi carves out the material to make the result super light. He is offering the shoes on line or in exclusive stores. An energetic new take on sporty luxury – with bold colours to match the shapes.
Light as a feather! Brunello Cucinelli shows off a super-light cashmere jacket in a Lora Piana fabric at his exhibition stand. © Suzy Menkes
Caruso presents a video installation by Sergio Colantuoni showing how much a customer should expect to pay after all the processes involved in a tailored jacket. Minimalist meets classic. © Suzy Menkes