suzy menkes
Suzy Menkes
international vogue editor

14

Paul S Main Image

Paul Smith, like all tailors, is a man who enjoys a straight line. If there were any curves at the designer’s show, I missed them – apart from the bodies of the sporty models and a squishy handbag.

The rest of the show was about stripes, a nautical-meets-office parade of jackets, skirts and dresses, perhaps with pleats to add another layer of lines. It all added up to a fresh summer look, where the most daring development was a dress with red, sky- and inky-blue lines and a waft of (straight) feathers at the hip line.

The clothes seemed smart and woman-friendly – in that they would work as hard as we do. But all those stripes and straight lines lacked soul. Then, suddenly, right at the show’s ending came a sharply cut white shirt, softened with smudgy blue flowers – and the same pattern caught up in dark navy pleats below.

This was a fine example of the soft-and-sharp effect that could have had more traction in the rest of the collection.

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ABOUT SUZY

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Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

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