New  York Fashion Week Day Five

There is something perverse about designing for a brand that calls itself “Diesel Black Gold” and shows nothing that represents those words – unless you count the digital flames in squares as the show’s backdrop or the gold-studded, front-row line-up of Rita Ora and models Amber Le Bon and Coco Rocha.

Instead, the show, designed by Andreas Melbostad, featured leather studded with silver stars, silver mirrored discs, and anything that shone or sparkled – apart from that elusive gold.

The collection was acceptable as sportswear with a sexual kick, and the designer added coral red and icy blue as a counterpoint to black and silver.

The only problem is with the layout of the New York collection, where anything goes: fashion high, low or indifferent. Diesel had the misfortune to show right after Rodarte, which is a full designer brand and in a different league.