New York Fashion Week Day Four

The flowers on the floor spelt out two letters in pink peonies: “TH” – for Tommy Hilfiger. But they also meant so much more: flower children, the Summer of Love, The Beatles in their yellow submarine, and the enthusiasm to recreate that freewheeling hippie era at festivals from Coachella to Glastonbury.

Even the show invitation was printed at the centre of a pre-digital vinyl record.

“Celebrating the music festivals of the ’60s and ’70s – my time!’ said Tommy backstage, after one of the most vibrant shows he has done in a while.

From the big, boyfriend sweater patterned with stars and skulls, to the boots splattered with even more stars, there was something magical about the collection, with a live band and fresh flowers adding to the festival-inspired set.

Gone were the cute preppy girls, who had morphed into Marianne Faithfull hiding inside a striped cape; or Kate Moss in her habitual festival attire of denim top and shorts.

The blend of glitter and grunge worked well as a sweater with an exploding star over skinny patchwork jeans. While a bodysuit was made with strips of sparkling fabric that were also used on a beach robe of a dress.

There is no real depth to a Hilfiger collection. Short dresses, slim pants and motorbike hats were shown with a flourish – yet without the irony or tension you might get from a Marc Jacobs or a Karl Lagerfeld.

But this time, there was a sense that Tommy took something from his soul and made it into fashion music.