“There is always an element of the 1970s with me, but it has to be relevant to now,” said Derek Lam, after sending out high-class versions of suede and patchwork in painterly colours like lavender and turquoise.

The designer may have had Joni Mitchell’s 1974 ‘Help Me’ on the soundtrack, but he did not need any help in bringing the ‘70s into his Summer 2015 collection.

The proportions of long, soft, high-waisted pants hearkened back to the hippie era, but they were given a graceful sensuality – or they were worn with crisp partners, such as tailored tops stiffened with studs.

However lush the palette, the quantity of suede seemed overwhelming, especially for a summer collection. Yet Lam has a point of view, fixing his style between smart cutting and soft fabrics, or stirring a dreamy luxury into sportswear. It is a gentle fashion voice – but a pleasing one.